Starfire to join the 3100

As I mentioned in the first post, my immediate goal for the truck is to get it running and back on the road.  It's going to look a little ratty, so I figured, why not go with the rat rod look for now.  I want the truck to look like something that a kid in the 1960's would have had.  What I mean by that is the truck is a little beat up cosmetically, but all the mechanicals are rock solid and have been hopped up a little.

So, in keeping with that strategy, I purchased a tachometer to add to the truck, once I get the engines swapped.  The tach came from a 1962 Oldsmobile Starfire and looks like this:

I took the pic while it was on top of the air filter housing that came from a 1964ish Chevy II or Nova. The back of the tach looks like this:

Based on the wiring diagram for similar (but several model years newer) Oldsmobiles, the tan wire is the tach lead.  It has a Bussman AGA-2 (2 amp) inline fuse and connects to the negative post on the coil.  The black wire is the ground.  The white wire is the power feed for the bulb and the bulb is grounded through contact with the back of the tach.

To temporarily mount the tach to the engine stand, I got a 3" pipe hanger from Lowes and wrapped the tach in old bicycle inner tube.  You can see the pipe hanger in the top pic and the inner tube in the bottom pic.

I'm going to hook up the tach to the engine on the test stand to see if the tach is functional.  At this point, I'm guessing that I'll need an adapter to make the tach accurate, as the Starfire was an 8 cylinder engine and my 235 is a 6 cylinder.  We'll see.  The brass plug visible in the bottom pic is a cover over the access hole to a variable resistor.  The AC service bulletin states that you can access the resistor to fine tune the tach's performance.  I don't know if it's possible to tune it to a 6 cylinder from an 8 cylinder or not.  But, first things first, let's see if it still runs at all.  That'll be in the next post.